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History checks
Run these checks before you even go to see the car
The real issue
Most buyers inspect first and check history later — or not at all. History checks cost $2–$30 and take five minutes. Finding out after purchase that a car has finance owing, has been written off, or has a clocked odometer costs thousands. Run the checks before you waste time on an inspection. If the history is clean, inspect. If it's not, walk away.
| Country | Check | What it reveals | Cost / where |
|---|---|---|---|
| Australia | PPSR (Personal Property Securities Register) | Finance owing on the vehicle, written-off status (repairable or statutory), stolen vehicle flag, whether encumbered | $2 at ppsr.gov.au — search by VIN or plate |
| UK | HPI Check / Cazana / Motorcheck | Finance, stolen, write-off (Cat A/B/S/N), plate changes, mileage anomalies, MOT history | £5–£20 at hpicheck.com or similar |
| USA | Carfax / AutoCheck / NMVTIS | Accident history, title brands (salvage, flood, lemon), odometer readings, service records | $40–$50 single report at carfax.com; free partial via vehiclehistory.gov (NMVTIS) |
| All regions | VIN verification | Confirm VIN on the dashboard (driver's side, visible through windscreen) matches the VIN on the engine bay plate, compliance plate, and registration papers. Mismatches indicate rebirthing or fraud. | Free — visual check during inspection |
Finance owing is the most common issue in AU private sales. If a car has money owing on it (secured against the PPSR), the lender's interest in the vehicle can follow it to the new owner. Always check PPSR before purchase. If finance is showing, do not proceed until you have written confirmation from the seller that the loan is discharged at or before settlement.
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Physical inspection
What to look for when you inspect — and when to bring a mechanic
| Check area | What you're looking for |
|---|---|
| Panel gaps and paint | Uneven panel gaps, overspray on rubber seals, mismatched paint texture under sunlight — all indicate panel repair or respray after an accident. Walk around the car in bright light. |
| Underbody (crouch and look) | Rust on the chassis rails, fresh undercoating (may hide rust), bent or misaligned subframe components. Use your phone torch. |
| Engine bay | Oil leaks around the rocker cover, coolant level and colour (brown or milky = head gasket concern), water in the dipstick tube, corrosion on terminals. Start the engine cold — smoke on startup, rough idle, or knocking are red flags. |
| Interior | Water stains on carpets or under seats (flood damage), musty smell, rust on seat rail bolts, fogging of electrical components. Check all windows, locks, and electronics function. |
| Test drive | Drive at highway speed — steering wheel vibration, pulling to one side, shudder under braking. Test all gears, listen for diff whine, check that auto transmission changes smoothly without slipping or hesitation. |
Book a pre-purchase inspection (PPI) for any car over $5,000. An independent mechanic (not one recommended by the seller) puts the car on a hoist and checks what you can't see. NRMA, RAA, RAC, and RACQ in Australia offer PPIs for $150–$250. This is the single best $200 you can spend before committing to a private sale.
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Negotiation
How to negotiate on a private sale — using what you find
Private sellers are not dealers — they usually have one car to sell and a price anchor in mind. The negotiation dynamic is different: you're not haggling against a margin, you're making a case based on evidence.
| Lever | How to use it |
|---|---|
| Market comparables | Before the inspection, search carsales.com.au (AU), AutoTrader (UK/US) for identical make/model/year/variant/km listings. Know what the market is actually asking — not just what this seller wants. |
| Mechanic report findings | Any item on the PPI report becomes a negotiation point. "The mechanic noted the rear brake pads are at 20% — that's a $300 job. I'd like to reflect that in the price." Concrete, documented, hard to argue with. |
| Odometer vs asking price | If the car has more kilometres than typical for its age, show the seller what comparable lower-km cars are selling for. High km = lower price is a factual market argument. |
| Walk-away posture | The seller has one car. You have many options. "I'm happy to proceed at $X based on what I've found — if that doesn't work for you, I understand." Genuine willingness to walk creates real leverage. |
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Handover
Payment, paperwork, and transfer of ownership
| Item | What to do |
|---|---|
| Payment method | Bank transfer only — traceable, documented, reversible in fraud cases. Never cash for a vehicle. Confirm the transfer has arrived in the seller's account before handing over the keys (or receiving them). |
| Written receipt | Seller's full name and address, buyer's full name and address, vehicle make/model/year/VIN/registration, agreed sale price, date, and "sold as seen" or specific representations made. Both parties sign. |
| Transfer of registration (AU) | Both buyer and seller must complete a vehicle transfer form — available from your state roads authority (Service NSW, VicRoads, TMR QLD etc.). Submit within the required timeframe (typically 14 days) to transfer duty liability to the buyer. |
| Service records and keys | Insist on all available service records (confirms claimed service history), all keys and remotes (replacement keys are expensive), and any remaining warranty documents. |
| Insurance — cover the gap | Arrange insurance before you drive the car away. If you have an accident driving an uninsured vehicle home, you have no cover. Call your insurer from the seller's driveway if needed — most can add a vehicle over the phone immediately. |